2009-02-15

TRAFFIC

I bought a bicycle. It’s old fashion used one from the 2nd hand shop. First time in my life I was riding on the left side of the street! In Asian traffic! I thought they’d kill me after a minute on the road. Suprisingly all road users are friendly and very careful. Thousands of motorbikes, cars, tuk-tuks, red taxi cars have passed me by like I’d have a note on my T-shirt: THIS IS SILLY „WHITE” WOMAN RIDING THIS BIKE, WATCH OUT!!!
But I did it! I didn’t make any mistakes like I was almost born to the left side traffic ☺ For one reason it’s similar to Polish style of driving: nobody obeys the rules on the road, but drivers are far more relaxed and easy-going than agressive ones in Poland. In the red taxi (pickups taking people from the street for 20 BHT, instead of buses, cos there are no buses in Chiang Mai) I whitnessed another driver bumped into the back of the taxi. Taxi driver jumped out to see damages. At first both guys smiled to each other and then had a little friendly chat after taxi driver had realised nothing bad happened and after 1 min we all could go to our destinations.
Asian traffic. The subject is long as the longest traffic jam. Although it doesn't look like 20 years ago it still a bit chaotic for Europeans in Thailand. But go to Burma! Gosh, they drive like crazy, seem to not care about pedestrians at all. Traffic lights are rare luxury. In Mandalay you could wait for ages to cross the street, cos even if there are lights all cars just drive very fast, turning right and left. By the way, lights are only for drivers. Actually all the public space seems to be only for drivers. And for advertising, of course.
But they are masters of wheels. Sitting in so-called bus (old Japanese one from 50s or 60s, no bolsters, no air-cond, all windows and door open) to Inle Lake at first I was terrified. The road (so to speak) was full of holes, sometimes there was no road but sand. We were in mountains, and if there was a passing of two buses on the curve one had to stop and wait for another. The one who stops almost hang above the precipice. But after a while I relised the guy was driving this road thousand of times and he has to be master of wheel dealing with this circumstances on regular basis. Also they are perfect mechanics, cos of course they have to deal with junk cars all the time. Our „bus” was broken down as well. They fixed it 15 mins.
In Burma traffic is on the right side, which is strange, cos they were under British (or... maybe that’s why), but they buy (very) old cars in Japan, so all wheels are on the right side of the car. It caused the situation that in buses there has to be the guy who watches the road and tells the driver if he can overtake or do any other manoeuvre, cos the driver can’t see anything sittin on the right side. There is anoyher guy to watch the door, scream the destination places and collect money (tickets, five times more expensive, are seem to be only for foreigners). Of course there is also manager of the bus. So four people staff work in one minibus. Isn’t it wonderful? Isn’t it great way to avoid unemployment problems?
So after 12 hours of journey (about 300 km!) I was covered by dust, stressed out, my neck almost broken, but I was alive and had the greatest „bus” adventure in my entire life!

I can only imagine how it looks like in India. But... I'm gonna see it!

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2009-02-04

SO GOOD TO HAVE FRIENDS AROUND

Rob left Chiang Mai the night before. We’ve been friends for more then 2 years now. He was supporting me after my last relationship had fallen apart. We talked a lot. We know each other very well. I’ve learned from him, he's learned from me. We’ve been traveling together. Anyway, I made him come with me to Asia and I’m so glad he liked it here. He didn’t want to go to Burma at first, but he ended up being bigger Burma lover than me! We went through many adventures together, New Year spiritual blessing in one of the Bangkok temples, Koh Phangan accident on motorbike, Bagan’s beauty, so-called bus to Inle Lake (300 km in 12 hours!), mountain trekking and many others. Rob, I’m gonna miss you!
Lucy, my CouchSurfing host, was so sweet to offer me staying at her beautiful house in Chiang Mai as long as I want, although I feel like my own place. So, I found my apartment yesterday! Hallelujah! After I had walked my ass off for the whole morning and afternoon trying to find something nice (I mean peaceful and with window which is not so obvious to Asian standards) and for resonable price, I got tired and a bit frustrated. To be on the right track again I stopped having some Pad Thai (fried noodles with vegetables and cashew nuts, delicious!) and smsed my Thai friend, Pern, asking for help. She took me on her motorbike and patiently was showing me one place after another, explaining in Thai what my expectations are to the landlords. After some time she took me to the place she lives. That was it! For 2500 BHT per month I will have a decent room with big balcony (window, hurray!), with a cupboard, desk, chair and a bed inside. The bed is huge but the mattress is hell taugh. I asked for replacing it, but Lucy said is avarage Thai mattress, so I shouldn’t expect too much. There is a bathroom with a hot water (paid extra 100 BHT).
Yeah, but... I’m staying with Lucy one more night. To be honest, I could’ve moved today, but... it’s so nice to be with Lucy!